A Million Hands

A study of Arts and Crafts from around the world.

Sunday, February 12, 2006

Zapotec weavings

When it comes to Zapotec weavings, not only will you be treated to an amazing creation by a local artisan but also provided with information about that person’s village, lifestyle, and history through the chosen design. These weavings are made with vibrant colors, which are then woven into both traditional and modern rugs, wall hangings, and other pieces. The Zapotec people work very hard to bring life to each of their weavings, which is very apparent by the quality of work.

This ancient tribe were originally hunters but over the years, transitioned into craftsman, often working with pottery. Then sometime around 500 BC, the Zapotec people settled in small communities in the Oaxaca valley of Mexico and by 450 AD, the population had expanded to around 25,000 with an empire so large it would easily cover Mexico City as we know it today. Then as 900 AD rolled around, the Mixtecs defeated the Zapotecs and then hundreds of years later, were themselves defeated by the Aztec Indians.

Today, you still find Zapotec people in Mexico, although the total population is only around 500,000. These people still hold onto their ancient beliefs, maintain a traditional type of culture, and speak their own language, although there are a variety of dialects. While the Zapotecs now work in more modern type jobs, the weavings continue to thrive. That means this style of weaving can be traced back between 200 and 800 AD and is still going strong today, a unbroken line of talent seldom seen.

For Zapotec weavings, the people use Merino wool that is grown locally or they will purchase sheep from Indians living in Mitla. The first step involves carding the wool, which means to remove any sticks, seeds, leaves, and other type of debris. Once the wool is clean, it is spun, usually on an ancient wooden spinning wheel that turns the wool into yarn. For just a small weaving, the Zapotec would need to spin wool for about two to three days. The warp, which are threads running lengthwise in the loom are placed on the loom first. Then, the Zapotec would pass the threads horizontally, which is what creates the unique and detailed designs. These horizontal threads are called “woof” or “weft.”

After the wool is spun, it is then colored with natural dyes that come from special formulas passed down from one generation to another. Interestingly, each Zapotec family will have their own way of mixing the dyes, which is why you see so many variations within the same community. For the dye to be made, several natural resources are used.

First, the color red comes from the cochineal insect, blue comes from indigo, black is made from the ink of the sea snail or huisache tree, and for the colors yellow or brown, rock moss is used. What makes this so fascinating is that by using these resources, the Zapotec people can produce more than 40 different colors/tones.

For the design, the Zapotec people use a combination of pre-Columbian and regional, which is what you would find in the tapetes, a highly collectible type of weaving. Keep in mind that for the Zapotec people to create just one small weaving - something around four by five feet - the process could very well take an entire month. Then for the large weavings, which are often used as rugs or bedding, the weaver would require at least a year, if not longer. We are fortunate in that Zapotec weavings from Mexico live on, allowing us today to enjoy a valuable part of history!

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