A Million Hands

A study of Arts and Crafts from around the world.

Monday, February 20, 2006

Serapes

Serapes are commonly known as a type of Mexican shawl or blanket. This traditional item began as a masculine garment that reflected the technological and socioeconomic aspect of its production, distribution, and use, as well as the weaver's personal experience. The designs vary tremendously, some that are simplistic and others quite elaborate.

The Mexican serape has a long and interesting history associated with the production of wool and cotton, two materials commonly used for a number of textiles by the Mexican people. The serape is made in numerous areas of the country, which is why it actually has many different names. For instance, the serape is also called chamarro, jorongo, cobiga, cotton, frazada, tilme, and gaban.

The fascinating aspect of the Mexican serape is that it is a perfect blend of weaving traditions such as European and Mesoamerican. That means that with the European style of weaving, you would see cotton and dyes used to create wonderful designs whereas for the Mesoamerican style, wool is used and mounted on a look to create designs. In other words, one is dyed to make unique designs while the other is weaved.

The woven styles associated with the Mesoamerican way of weaving the serape has been used primarily in the 18th and 19th centuries. During the time this style of serape was developed, the quality in factories and workshops was amazingly good, created most often in states such as Coahuila, Guanajuato, Michoacan, Puebla, Quetetaro, and Zacatecas.

Another interesting fact about the Mexican serape is that it was a common garment used by people of all lifestyles. For example, it was common to see horsemen, workers, town residents, and even lepers all preferring to wear the serape. Keep in mind that these serapes were the type woven.

Now, the type of serape that used cotton and dyes was considered a luxury garment whereby aristocrats and hacienda owners would wear them. These serapes were worn to high society parties, for walks along the avenues, or simply out for a leisurely stroll. These serapes were so gorgeous that famed artists and travelers from other countries would marvel at their distinct and colorful design.

The Mexican serape was even worn by insurgents fighting in the War of Independence along with patriots in wars where the French and Americans fought. This means that the serape was a garment of choice whether a conservative or liberal. In fact, the Mexican serape was actually used in refuge camps to keep people warm and for clothing, as a shroud for loved ones killed in battle, and the Revolutionary's flag. To this day, in the country of Mexico, this one item as well as the famous sombrero is what define the Mexican.

Serapes are also very versatile, being used as a shawl to dress up, a pillow on which to lay the head, as a coat for keeping warm, or even a bedcover. Even horsemen working the cold mountains and hot deserts use the serape as protection against the sun, rain, and snow. Remember, depending on the technique use for weaving, the serape can be a very sophisticated and elegant garment, a blanket on the back of a horse, or a blanket for a baby's crib.

Although you can still find people in Mexico that make serapes by hand, whether with dye or the weaving process, because factories have made it possible for mass production, the popularity of the serape is increasing dramatically. Today, we see incredible colors and designs that were not available years ago. Typically, these more colorful serapes come from places like Contla, Chiauhtempan, and Tlaxcala.

Many of the designs you see used in serapes come from landscapes or photographs seen by the weavers of serapes that are made in Contla, Guadalupe, San Bernandino, Tlascala, Tlaxiaco, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, and Zacatecas. The serapes made in Oaxaca and Santa Ana del Valle are most often made with natural colored fibers with the designs being replicates of paintings created by well-known artists.

The serapes woven will commonly have two woven sections that are then sewn together although there are some looms capable of creating one, large serape. Serapes made out of the finest wool usually come from the Cora and Huichol Indians. Then, the serapes made with wool and chichicazatle, which is a vegetable fiber that produces a green color and has a tick texture usually comes from Oaxaca, San Pedro Mixtepec, Santa Catalina Zhanaguia, and San Juan Guivine.

Another fascinating fact about serapes is that in 1835 during the Texan War, soldiers would wear this garment over their uniforms that were very different from what the commanders wore. This particular war limited the number of serapes that could be made because of the high demand of the soldiers. When done wearing them for fighting, the soldiers would take the serape and give it to their girlfriends or wives, other family members, or simply use it as adornment for their home.

Without doubt, the Mexican serape is one garment that has a rich and diverse history. Today, serapes are just as popular, often used for garments, throws on the back of a couch, or an extra blanket on the bed to keep the chilly weather at bay. You can purchase serapes in Mexico and many South American's country or you can find them online. With the connection to other countries through the internet, many weavers are taking advantage of the opportunity by selling beautiful serape creations online.

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